Sugar ‘n’ spice
Plaza Khao Gaeng (London Bridge)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A casual spot inspired by the markets and street stalls of southern Thailand, Plaza Khao Gaeng is a collaboration between chef Luke Farrell of Speedboat Bar, and JKS (the group behind BiBi, Gymkhana and Legado). After opening the original in Arcade Food Hall in 2022, the second Plaza Khao Gaeng opened in November in a railway arch in Borough Yards.
The Vibe: Outside-inside. It’s designed like a street market, with exposed brick walls, plastic tablecloths, laminated menus and signs in Thai. In the front of the restaurant, you’re in full view of passersby through the window, while the back (above) is more cosy and private. There’s a street cart dedicated to paloh, a Thai-Chinese stew, and the walls are adorned with Thai movie posters and pictures of royalty. Trains rattle and vibrate overhead – it can get noisy. It all makes for a good after-work cocktail spot, along with lively group dinners and larger events.
The Food: Spicy, flavoursome, fun. The picture-illustrated menu is split into snacks, sides, curries, salads and stir-fries. Our server handily marked up notes on spice levels. Refreshing strawberry salad was laced with tiny, crispy jasmine fish, slices of green mango and fresh herbs. A highlight from the snacks is miang pla, slow-grilled pork sausage made in-house and served with fermented fish and peanut, coconut and galangal, and served on a peppery betel leaf – eat it like a taco and feel the contrast of flavours.
From the curries, whole brown crab and coconut milk curry was milder than billed, and made for a fun few minutes of plastic bibs, seafood picks and a crab cracker to extract the meat. Whole crispy sea bass is the highlight from the stir fries, with crunchy, chewy skin, lots of tender, soft meat, and a sauce of green peppercorns and jungle herbs. We finished the spread with simple jasmine rice and soft, flaky roti in the Thai-Muslim style. Young coconut pudding with candied pumpkin and tapioca pearls makes for a very sweet ending.
The Drink: Hard drinking is encouraged, with shots of mango tequila, lychee vodka and a Fernet Branca-Crème de Menthe concoction that looks like a macchiato topped with hundreds and thousands. Less hardcore (but still pleasingly punchy) is the Paricha Margarita, a winning combo of mango-infused Cascabel tequila, lime and kumquat liqueur, with a Thai red chilli on the side (decorative or not? You decide). The three-litre Singha beer tower makes for a fun addition to the table, and daring diners can try a durian-infused cocktail with peanut butter and coconut rum. Iced tea and coffee are available, too, with plenty of condensed milk to offset the spicy food.
The Verdict: Banging flavours and an emphasis on fun – Plaza Khao Gaeng is a welcome addition to the already excellent food offering at Borough Yards. –Laura Price
→ Plaza Khao Gaeng (London Bridge) • 18 Stoney St • Mon-Sat 12-1030p, Sun 12-830p • Book.