Spice of life
Speedboat Bar at the Electric (Notting Hill)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A rowdy spot inspired by Bangkok’s Chinatown, the first Speedboat Bar was a collaboration between the team behind Gymkhana and Luke Farrell, a British chef who’s lived in Thailand for almost 20 years. After the runaway success of the Soho branch, which opened in 2022, they teamed up with Soho House to open Speedboat Bar at the Electric in July. In the middle of bustling Portobello Road in Notting Hill, it occupies the former site of neighbourhood mainstay Electric Diner, which was also part of Soho House.
The Vibe: The shell of Electric Diner remains, including the beloved booths, but the interior is now much less polished, with a roughed-up aesthetic that suits a young drinking crowd. There’s plenty of bar seating, as well as outdoor tables that spill out into the buzz of the street. Service is fast and furious, and you’ll likely run out of table space when the dishes start to arrive.
The Food: The menu is compact but diverse, with small plates, salads, noodles, curries and specials. Crispy chicken skins with zaep seasoning are immediately addictive, and crunchy chicken salad with green mango kerabu offers a fresh, zingy start. Many of the dishes are unreasonably spicy – this isn’t your restaurant if you’re sensitive to heat. If you do enjoy the burn of chilli, try Tom Yam Mama noodles, minced beef with holy basil or an impressive whole sea bream served with makrut lime (I survived only two bites of the Tom Yam). On the milder side, the beef wide rice noodle dish is an easy win. Desserts are limited.
The Drink: The drinks menu is fun and one of the main reasons to visit Speedboat Bar, especially for the vibrant, tropical cocktail selection. Expect mojitos, snakeblood negronis, Thai-inspired palomas and whisky sodas, several of which you can order super-sized. The non-alcoholic selection is equally uplifting, including several very good Thai iced tea variations and a zero-proof mojito.
The Verdict: Although it’s bittersweet to say goodbye to the Electric Diner, Speedboat Bar promises a lively, casual atmosphere that aptly counter-programmes Notting Hill’s fancier side. –Emily Zemler
→ Speedboat Bar at the Electric (Notting Hill) • 191 Portobello Rd • Sun-Thu 12-11p, Fri-Sat 12p-1a • Book.