RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Opened last year, Irish chef Luke Ahearne’s modern Mediterranean bistro Lita is fine dining sans pretension or tasting menu, and it’s as excellent a place for a drop-in glass of wine and bite as it is a spot to settle in for a full feast.
The Vibe: Lively and smart, Lita has a configuration for whatever you’re feeling: Sit windowside (or in summer, out on the terrace) for people watching along Marylebone High Street, or take a perch in the front section for a great all-round view. For a more theatrical experience, head to the kitchen counter to dine in front of the chefs, or take up a booth in the back for a more intimate seating. And despite the slick aesthetic, you’ll find Lita surprisingly down to earth, with children and dogs both welcome.
The Food: Think of your favourite dish, then zhuzh it. Pan con tomate? Top it with anchovies. Bluefin tuna crudo, but add peppers and capers. Gazpacho, topped with juicy Sicilian red prawns. In aggregate, the fare is Spanish-leaning Mediterranean with Basque influences, like a whole Cornish turbot cooked on the open-fire grill. There’s no showboating, though: just the best quality ingredients, simply prepared, yielding maximum flavour..
The Drink: Lita has an excellent, thoughtfully curated wine list comprising largely French, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese labels, all beautifully complementing Ahearne’s menu. There’s also an extensive spirits list and creative cocktails, including a rhubarb pisco sour, and a passionfruit and buckwheat daiquiri.
The Verdict: A new London classic for refreshingly simple yet delicious food — certainly one of the best London openings of 2024. –Laura Price
→ Lita (Marylebone) • 7-9 Paddington St W1U 5QH • Mon-Sat 12-230p & 6-11p, Sun 12-230p & 6-1030p • Book.