Second date
Luso, best plant-based restaurants, Didi’s Supper Club, Alfie’s Antiques Market, Black Renaissance, Starling, Palé Hall, MORE
RESTAURANTS • First Word
Coastal refresh
The Skinny: After three successful years of Lisboeta, chef Nuno Mendes has decided to focus on his projects in Portugal. But instead of closing the Charlotte St. site, owners MJMK (Kol, AngloThai) transformed it into a new Portuguese restaurant. Opened last week, Luso occupies the same characterful two-floor space, with a new, slightly more casual menu devised by Mendes protégé Leandro Carreira.
The Vibe: Luso’s interior remains largely unchanged from Lisboeta, and it’s still one of the most beautiful places to dine in London. On the ground floor (above) is a long, narrow room with the open kitchen at the back – it’s a little more casual down here, and a good spot for a pre-dinner drink, a first date or a catch-up with friends. Upstairs is another long, narrow room with multiple spaces for romantic dates and celebrations. The best seats are by the front windows, surrounded by exposed brickwork, sage green wood panels, and some charming new black-and-white sketches of fish. It’s a genuinely warm, welcoming spot, and the service is friendly.
The Food: Luso (pronounced ‘loo-zoo’) refers to all things Portuguese, and the menu focuses on the Iberian Atlantic coastline. It starts with tangy Algarve-style pickled carrots, sourdough and excellent homemade fish pâté. Then there are small plates, including finger-thin grilled chouriço (the Portuguese spelling), the best smoked sausage I’ve eaten since Asador Etxebarri (high praise). A creative lobster roll is full of promise but falls short – the flaky, buttery, croissant-style pastry overpowers the delicate lobster meat. At lunchtime only, there’s an enticing-sounding ‘prego,’ the Portuguese steak sandwich made with brown butter and mustard.
After small plates, there are larger mains for sharing, including piri piri chicken. Wild, whole seabass is salt-baked and presented in its pre-cooked form before returning to the table, naked but for a squeeze of lemon and a Portuguese gooseneck dispenser of olive oil to drizzle at your leisure. The fish is fresh and succulent, and goes well with moreish, buttery, sticky baked rice. Suckling pig is creatively presented in bite-sized pieces, with orange slices, plain crisps and a thick, garlicky sauce. As per northern Portuguese tradition, it’s meant to be dunked in the sauce and chased with crisp and orange, but the pork is just as good on its own.
Tomato salad is the freshest of the fresh, with huge hunks doused in olive oil, salt and red onion. Thinly sliced roasted red peppers should be ordered alongside the mains. As for pudding, there’s a strong selection: a rich, perfect chocolate mousse with a smattering of olive oil and salt, and a classic, gooey almond tart. There’s also a gingery, koji-fermented rice pudding with olive oil that feels surprising, creative and comforting. Luso’s opening menu has been written by Carreira, but it’s likely to evolve over time under head chef Kim Hernandez, whose culinary chops include Luca and Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare.
The Drink: To start, a killer Negroni. Then it’s straight to a stellar wine list of Portuguese labels, including a collection from Herdade do Cebolal in the Alentejo, where the bottles are aged in lobster cages under the sea.
The Verdict: In these early stages, Luso doesn’t have as strong an identity as Lisboeta, but it’s still a good spot for Portuguese cuisine in London, and likely to strengthen over time. Whatever you do, leave room for dessert. –Laura Price
→ Luso (Soho) • 30 Charlotte St. • Mon 530-11p, Tue-Sat 12-3 & 530-11p • Book.
LONDON RESTAURANT LINKS: Mayfair Peruvian restaurant Coya hit by booking scam • Italian sandwicherie All’Antico Vinao opens first London outpost • East London wine bar Passione Vino adding Clerkenwell branch • Are you ready to be the table captain?
WORK • Wednesday Routine
Handmade
RAYVENN SHALEIGHA D’CLARK • artist & digital sculptor • Sculptural Drawings Ltd. & MTArt Agency
Neighbourhood you work and live in: Croydon
It’s Wednesday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
I’m in my home studio, surrounded by multiple computer screens and equally surrounded by animals and plants. It’s early morning, and the world still feels quiet, so I tidy my space and prep for the coming day. I’m a digital sculptor working in a tech space, so I make sure the equipment, primarily my second screen and laptop, are in sync, and my haptic device has recovered from the day before. It is like a second limb at this point, so I do a check-in to ensure my equipment is working is a priority. My three cats are eager to be fed, and my dog Lana, a Standard Poodle, is happy to see me and looking forward to her morning walk.
What’s on the agenda for today?
I check my calendar for the day and take my dog for a walk. I enjoy the crisp mornings, and my walk with my dog is my favourite part of my days in the warmer months. My agenda is full, as I have several commitments at the moment, including several commission bids in the US and the UK, checking emails and creating new artwork.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
My partner is a great cook, and I enjoy everything he cooks for me. I am very lucky, but our go-to spot is Padella in Borough. It’s cheap, cheerful and super tasty. We join the virtual queue on the way there, have a few drinks in the pub nearby, and wait. We recently queued for 45 minutes for L'Entrecote, which was well worth the wait. Last weekend, we spent a wonderful evening with Didi’s Supper Club, a Punjabi-inspired six-course menu in Southeast London with a table of strangers. It was delicious.
Any weekend getaways?
I spent the bank holiday in a cabin in the Welsh Hills at Skirrid Welsh Marches Holiday Cottages. A two-to-three-hour drive, but it was well worth it. It was bliss. A real spot in the middle of nowhere with unrestricted views across fields and the Glyn Valley. I walked for hours and got muddy on the trails daily; Lana was in her element. My phone signal was nonexistent, but I managed to watch Netflix shows the entire weekend.
What was your last great holiday?
I travelled across the Southern states of the US after launching my latest public project in Montgomery, Alabama, titled ‘Black Renaissance’ in the summer of 2024. I was honoured to be commissioned by the Equal Justice Initiative (EJI) to install three permanent bronze sculptures in the Freedom Monument Sculpture Park. My travels began in Montgomery, and I stopped along the way in Atlanta, New Orleans and Texas – I rented a massive Jeep and had so much fun travelling and experiencing true Southern hospitality.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
My Geomagic Touch Haptic Device by 3D Systems. I have a wonderful relationship with a company called OR3D, who are the leading providers and consultants of CAD, 3D scanning, and laser scanning services. In recent months, they have covered my work and my use of the Haptic Device for new creative applications. The device has levelled up my creative practice, enabling me to develop unique, highly customisable artworks for a wide range of applications.
Where are you donating your time or money?
I am a Project Manager for Connecting Stories, a women's empowerment community that empowers women and young girls to thrive and reach their greatest potential. I am currently helping with their website redevelopment.
WORK & PLAY LINKS: South Hampstead, Ravenscourt Park and West Putney join the £1 million house prices club • Mayfair members club Tramp planning massive wellness center to debut next year • Is this the coolest aesthetics clinic ever?
CULTURE & LEISURE • Reunion Redux
Richard Hawley • Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (Regent’s Park) • Fri @ 7p • lower level, £63 per
Feeder • O2 Academy (Brixton) • Sat @ 7p • stalls, £55 per
Oasis • Wembley Stadium (Wembley) • Sat @ 5p • sec 103, £1152 per
GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Shop
Treasure trove
Alfie’s Antiques Market has been a haven for collectors, decorators and the discerningly curious for over 40 years. Yet it retains a clandestine charm – an open secret to aficionados and dealers, but otherwise, under the radar.
A step through its Art Deco façade reveals a warren of treasures: gilded mirrors, archival vintage from Givenchy to Dolce & Gabbana, mid-century furniture and the kind of curios that would make a Wes Anderson set designer swoon.
I’ve lost hours, afternoons, entire days wandering its labyrinthine corridors, eavesdropping on interior designers debating the merits of a 19th-century fauteuil, or traders arguing over the provenance of a family heirloom. Alfie’s doesn’t just sell objects – it creates scenes, moments and, occasionally, a touch of drama.
Finish up on the rooftop cafe, where you can catch your breath with a coffee or house cocktail in hand, contemplate the skyline and imagine where that Jasperware vase will sit in your living room. Or indeed, in this writer’s recent experience, how on earth you’re going to get that weighty, kilim rug home on the Overground. –Amy Rose Holland
→ Shop: Alfies Antique Market (Marylebone) •13-25 Church St • Tue-Sat 10a-6p.
GETAWAYS • Esher
Hot date
They say you can tell within 30 seconds if you’re into someone. I can usually tell from the snacks if I’m going to love a restaurant. In Starling’s case, it was definitely love at first bite. I fell hard for the truffle cheese crumpets, two rectangles of perfectly chewy, not-too-truffly sponges topped with 36-month-aged Parmesan. The next two snacks sealed the deal: a crunchy hash brown under tuna tartare and avocado, and a wodge of French toast with duck liver parfait the consistency of soft serve ice cream. I would not be walking out on this date.
A quick hop from Southwest London, Starling sits at the end of the high street in affluent Esher, Surrey. It’s a neighbourhood bistro fit for all occasions: weekend lunch with the kids, a dressed-up date night or cosy autumn Sunday lunch. Huge glass windows let in plenty of light and look onto the street, and along one side there’s a counter and open kitchen commanded by Nick Beardshaw, a former Tom Kerridge chef who won the Great British Menu cooking show in 2023.
While you could commit fully to the snacks, there’s an excellent starter of chalk stream trout pâté, decorated with chunks of raw trout, Granny Smith apple, green chilli sauce, trout roe and dill. It comes with a mini-loaf of treacle bread on which to spread the delicate, creamy pâté. From the mains, wild Cornish John Dory has that perfect, juicy, flakes-apart-on-the-fork consistency and is served with saffron aioli, charred fennel and a salt cod fritter. Duck breast is blushing pink and comes with a black pudding croustillant. To drink, an excellent spiced reposado margarita with chilli salt.
Starling nods to the Great British Menu in dishes like Balloon Girl, a Banksy-inspired raspberry cheesecake and chocolate torte, presented as a piece of art in a golden frame. But for me, this isn’t its strong point – it’s too much of a gimmick with too underwhelming a flavour profile compared with the snacks and mains. Much more interesting (and inviting-sounding) are the golden syrup flapjack with cashel blue, and chocolate ice cream with early harvest olive oil and Piedmont hazelnuts. I’ve already booked to go back for these. And by that, I mean: there’ll definitely be a second date. –Laura Price
→ Starling (Esher) • 3 High St • Wed-Sat 12-2p & 530-930p, Sun 12-4p • Book.
GETAWAYS • Intel
NEXT MOVE: After the closure of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, executive chef Luke Selby will head to Wales, where he’ll join as chef partner at Palé Hall in January. There, he’ll lead the 300-year-old pub with rooms The Bryntirion, as well as overseeing all food and beverages at the luxury country house hotel. Having worked with him at Le Manoir and at Evelyn’s Table, Luke’s brothers, Nathaniel and Theo Selby, will also move to Palé Hall. Book.
THREE IS THE MAGIC NUMBER: West Country hospitality group Beckford is planning three new openings in early 2026. The first of the trio, in February, will be Corsham House, a British brasserie with rooms. In March, they’ll open The King’s Arms, their fifth inn with rooms, in the Wiltshire village of Monkton Farleigh, outside Bath. Finally, April will see the opening of Teffont House, their first village hotel, in the Nadder Valley. Visit.
GETAWAYS LINKS: Second runway greenlit for LGW • In Paris, Four Seasons Hotel George V completes multi-year renovation • David Lebovitz’s recent favourite restaurants in the South of France.
ASK FOUND
Three FOUND subscriber PROMPTS for which we seek intel:
Who’s your favourite hairdresser?
Which autumn restaurant opening are you most excited about?
What’s your go-to London spot for oysters?
Got answers or more questions? Hit reply or email found@foundldn.com.
RESTAURANTS • The Nines
Restaurants, plant-based
The Nines are FOUND's distilled lists of London’s best. Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or found@foundldn.com.
Plates (Shoreditch, above), refined vegan tasting menu w/ several drinks pairings