RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A chic, intimate spot showcasing high-end dishes inspired by chef Eugene Korolev’s Ukrainian heritage, SINO debuted late last month in Notting Hill, a buzzy opening on an equally buzzy street, and the latest in an influx of refined Eastern European restaurants around London.
The Vibe: Earthy tones with wood accents make the compressed space feel airy and bright. It’s a relatively small restaurant generating a burst of energy when it’s packed. Although the atmosphere’s laid back, as befits the neighborhood, there’s an upscale-casual vibe to service and the food. Because of the size of the restaurant, most tables (a few of which are outdoors) are for two or four people, something to bear in mind when booking.
The Food: After a choice of bread and butter and savory waffles topped with caviar, a starter of crayfish wrapped in cabbage kicks the meal off with a bang (the server brought a spoon to help finish the rich, bisque-like sauce). The umami-packed beef tartare is topped with crispy artichoke, doused in a porcini sabayon. The main dishes encompass a range of meat, fish, and vegetarian options, including the indulgent sauerkraut dumplings and smoked potatoes served in hay-infused cream. Pickled beet salad adds a vinegary punch on the side. Currently, there are only two desserts: The honey cake is a strong finish, while a halva is less successful.
The Drink: A solid selection of wine, including non-alcoholic options from BÆK. The cocktails are artful and delicate, and pair well with the food.
The Verdict: An effortlessly cool, delicious addition to Notting Hill’s flourishing dining scene. –Emily Zemler
→ SINO (Notting Hill) • 7 All Saints Rd • Wed-Sun 12-230p & 6-930p • Book.