RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Shoreditch’s Pachamama East has transformed into Lagana, a hip sister restaurant to popular spots Nina and Bottarga, also serving Mediterranean-Greek fare. It debuted in mid-September to immediate and well-earned hype, thanks in part to the legacy of its former iteration and in part due to Nina’s undeniable Instagram effort.
The Vibe: With whimsical décor and childlike accents, Lagana is cool and fun: you can draw on the paper tablecloths, and menus look like school notebooks (complete with doodles). On a recent Wednesday night, it was loud, packed full, with a throng of guests waiting to be seated. Servers are as hip as the crowd itself.
The Food: Everything comes for the whole table, from dips (tzatziki, spicy feta, et al) to a perfectly crafted Greek salad. Lagana is named for the puffed flatbread that comes with multiple topping options, but the grilled pita is actually more flavourful. Bluefin tuna doused in oil and served with wakame is a must, as is the lamb belly accompanied by sumac onions and yoghurt. It’s easy to over-order (do it anyway), but dessert is excellent too. The caramel Basque cheesecake is astounding, and best eaten with the soft serve flavour of the day.
The Drink: The drinks list is minimal, comprising several colour-themed cocktails and a draft beer. There are two non-alcoholic cocktails – the spritz is refreshing, but the other is basically orange juice. The wine list is better, with several Greek varieties on offer.
The Verdict: Lagana is well worth frequenting, dishing out stellar food worthy of the positive word-of-mouth it’s been generating. –Emily Zemler
→ Lagana (Shoreditch) 19 Willow St • Mon-Sat 12-330p, 6-10p, Sun 12-330p, 6-930p • Book.
Lagana is among the hot restaurants on our Autumn Restaurant Rush Nines, below. Who else made the cut?