RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: ‘No omakase horseshit and ponce’ reads the description on Eel Sushi’s socials, and indeed, it couldn’t be more straightforward. The dinky sushi counter opposite big sister Dorian has a list of 12 sashimi and 13 nigiri, one miso soup, some caviar extras, and a 10-piece chef’s selection. Each reservation is a strict one-hour slot, and there’s no dessert. Your bill is slapped down as soon as you’ve finished your last bite, so you can’t linger. You won’t find better quality fish in London at this price point.
The Vibe: Opened in May, Eel Sushi describes itself as ‘a very casual, speedy sushi bar’. We’ve established the latter is true; the former is subjective. Dorian is a favourite haunt of the Beckhams, so this new concept from Chris D’Sylva and team is only ‘casual’ in a Notting Hill, £90-for-a-quick-bite kind of way, but you certainly don’t need to dress up. It’s fresh and funky, from the video game font to the cheeky manga figurines above the counter and the Brazilian music playing in the wood-cabin loo. Staff are friendly and welcoming, and all seats are good seats, whether along the counter facing the tiny open kitchen or at a window seat gazing at Dorian across the road. There are a handful of seats outside, and walk-ins are encouraged (though there’ll likely be a wait).
The Food: Eel Sushi shares owners with chefs’ favourite fishmonger Notting Hill Fish + Meat, which supplies the fish here. You’ll find about 12 varieties of sashimi, priced per two pieces (from akami tuna at £4 to lobster at £18) and 13 nigiri options, priced per piece (akami at £4, N25 Oscietra Reserve gunkan at £29). The chef’s nigiri flight is £60 (£80 with caviar), which on our visit included otoro, scallop, salmon roe gunkan and – my favourite – crispy eel nigiri. There’s just one hot item on the menu, a warming enoki and shimeji mushroom miso soup.
The Drink: There’s a stripped-back menu of excellent wine labels from the same list as Dorian, as well as sake, tea, Japanese beer and one cocktail, an excellent, nutty, clarified sesame margarita.
FOUND Pro: Keep an eye on their Instagram, where the team regularly announces special dishes and deals, like the lunchtime ‘summer set,’ a snip at £29 (ends 31/08).
The Verdict: The best quality fish for a quick midweek fix, and feels like a real neighbourhood spot. –Laura Price
→ Eel Sushi (Notting Hill) • 118 Talbot Rd • Daily 12-10p • Book.