RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: London’s buzziest new restaurant is New York import Carbone, famous there for its impossible-to-get tables and celebrity clientele. It debuted here in Grosvenor Square mid-September, as part of the restoration of the former American Embassy, taking up a coveted corner space alongside the Chancery Rosewood hotel. It’s more scene than restaurant, and the initial reservations vanished within seconds.
The Vibe: You know you’re in Mayfair when two doormen usher you inside Carbone’s ground floor bar, an indoor-outdoor space for walk-in guests. Underground, it’s even more extra, with an ornate, expansive dining room and bar evoking a vintage sophistication that combines New York glamour with British pretension. Like the Greenwich Village original, the service is about theatricality – several dishes arrive via trolley – and the art of the upsell. Before I was even offered water, my server (a “captain”) proudly displayed an enormous truffle that could be shaved onto any dish for an extra £100. The crowd is a mix of wealthy locals, curious American tourists and wannabe influencers flummoxed by the impossibly low lighting. The scope of the service requires a lot of coordination, which is still being worked out – incorrect dishes arrived twice, and the flow seemed off.
The Food: Carbone is known for overwrought presentations and large portions, which prompted an immediate warning from the server. The menu is nearly identical to the New York outpost – a lobster risotto is original to London, but wasn’t available when I dined – and there’s plenty from which to choose. The tableside Caesar salad, topped with buttery croutons and Spanish anchovies, was memorable. The spicy rigatoni vodka, Carbone’s most iconic dish, was satisfying. But the off-menu meatballs are what really bolstered the pasta. The meat and fish options are overwhelming in scale, so it’s best to order thoughtfully, especially since every table is given bread, pickled cauliflower and salami to start. As a final theatrical touch, desserts are carried to the table on a tray rather than listed on a menu.
The Drink: The classic cocktail list, with six martini variations, befits the nostalgic sensibility of Carbone, as does the Champagne, which is eagerly offered the moment you sit down (another upsell). Wines are primarily French and Italian, and there are a few non-alcoholic options, as well as beer and tea.
The Verdict: Aggressively expensive, difficult to access, and yet. With its compelling menu and atmospheric throwback elegance, Carbone manages to captivate and might just be worth the trouble. –Emily Zemler
→ Carbone (Mayfair) • 30 Grosvenor Sq • Tue-Sat 4-10p • Book.