RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: An immaculate Mayfair restaurant emphasising not-so-quiet luxury both in dishes and decor, The Cocochine opened last year from chef Larry Jayasekara and gallerist Tim Jefferies.
The Vibe: Spread across four floors of a former townhouse near posh Berkeley Square, its power spot tells are in the details: the well-spaced tables, the high-end wine cellar, the art from Jefferies’ Hamiltons Gallery decorating the walls (including several Warhols in the impressive private dining room). While clearly a place to be and be seen, the atmosphere is serene, even at the chef’s counter adjacent to Jayasekara’s custom kitchen. Lunch tends to attract suited-up business executives; couples and groups of friends fill the space in the evenings.
The Food: Most of the produce and meat is sourced from the restaurant’s own Rowler Farm. The fish arrives from Scotland and Jayasekara incorporates a few ingredients from his native Sri Lanka, but the menu is resolutely British in approach. Everything is presented à la carte (although there are prix fixe options at lunch and dinner). A memorable starter combines Japanese o-toro, roasted foie gras, and Golden Oscietra caviar. Mains showcase proteins from rack of venison to dry-aged sirloin (both from the farm). Vegetable-led dishes are just as pleasing, particularly the artistically presented salad, which features dozens of ingredients picked in Rowler’s fields and greenhouses. The best of the desserts is a simple Tahitian vanilla ice cream, the richest vanilla flavour I’ve ever experienced.
The Drink: The wine and champagne collection merits a primary focus. The primarily European bottle list has an emphasis on classic French labels that come with a hefty price tag. Non-alcoholic cocktails are flavourful and refreshing. There’s a hidden nook adjacent to the wine cellar where diners can have a drink before dinner.
FOUND Pro: Book the chef’s counter for a more dynamic experience or the window-side table for a more private conversation.
The Verdict: While a lot to take in, The Cocochine’s approach to fine dining is more elegant than overwrought. The food, delicate and memorable, takes a seasonal approach that will no doubt result in repeat visits for new dishes. –Emily Zemler
→ The Cocochine (Mayfair) • 27 Bruton Pl • Mon-Sat 12-230p, 6-945p • Book.