RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A shiny new Japanese-inspired grill and omakase bar on Wardour Street, MOI (rhymes with ‘soy’), helmed by head chef Nicholas Tannett, is the debut from hospitality group MAD Restaurants, .
The Vibe: Chic and elegant without being too pretentious. Set over two floors, the large restaurant features a busy open kitchen and different seating areas on the ground level, designed in earthy tones and reclaimed wood. Service is friendly and attentive.
The Food: MOI’s focus is on wood-fired dishes, but the raw items really stand out. The nigiri selection is artfully made and presented — the toro taku temaki was so good, I ordered it twice. House pickles are well-balanced, and vegetarian starters, like pineapple tomato rib served with smoked cream, are worth tasting. Wood-fired skewers are hit or miss: hispi cabbage was charred and doused in a delicious ginger sauce, but the prawns were a letdown.
The large mains are best enjoyed with company, especially if you want to try more than one. I went for red mullet, which arrived perfectly seared, floating in a langoustine bisque. It went perfectly with a side dish of coal-roasted leeks. Desserts are more overtly Japanese, including a refreshing kakigori and an umami chocolate mousse with Jersey ice cream.
The Drink: The wine list focuses on low-intervention and biodynamic labels, along with sake and shochu, but the cocktails are more interesting. Everything uses Japanese ingredients and techniques, from a Negroni incorporating potato shochu and yuzu sake to an unconventional martini stirred with Japanese gin. The non-alcoholic highball, which combines de-alcoholised sherry and black rice vinegar, is one of the most interesting drinks I’ve had in London all year.
The Verdict: A worthwhile night out for Japanese culinary craftsmanship. –Emily Zemler
→ MOI (Soho) • 84 Wardour Street • Tue-Sat 12-230p & 6-10p, Sun 1230-330p • Book.