Picky bits

Forza Wine (Soho)

RESTAURANTS & BARS • First Word

The Skinny: In early March, Forza Wine debuted its third location, this one in Soho. With an expansive heated terrace and a yet-to-open basement bar, the sizable space looks nothing like its maximalist predecessor, Daroco.

The Vibe: Like its sister locations in Peckham and at the National Theatre, Forza Wine Soho is laid-back and extremely busy, and you can pop in for a drink and a bite or a full meal. Tables are crammed a bit too close together (I was inches away from two drunken city bros), but it’s buzzy and the patio is packed.

The Food: Forza describes its approach to food as ‘Italian-ish’. Essentially elevated picky bits, the 12-dish offering veers from bar snacks like olives and parmesan chunks to more hefty plates of cauliflower fritti and ox cheek ragu. Radicchio salad, laced with orange, is bright and punchy, and burrata, accompanied by leeks and anchovies, is satisfyingly original. The selection of pane carasau, gorgonzola, finocchiona and pickles is a great accompaniment to cocktails. Forza’s signature custardo, a combination of espresso and custard, is always available, as is soft serve, with rotating flavours including malted milk.

The Drink: There are two frozen drinks and a strong selection of classic and original cocktails, including very good non-alcoholic versions (the No-groni is the best I’ve had in London). Wine is primarily European, with a lot of off-kilter choices, including chilled reds and orange varieties. Beware the chilli mezcal martini, which packs a punch in more ways than one.

The Verdict: Although the seating layout could use some reimagining, Forza Wine is fast becoming one of Soho’s favourite drinking spots, especially now the warm weather is here. –Emily Zemler

→ Forza Wine (Soho) • Manette St • Daily 12p-12a • Book.