Not so tame
Impala (Soho)
RESTAURANTS & BARS • First Word
The Skinny: Meedu Saad is best known as executive chef and co-owner of Kiln, the Soho Thai spot beloved of chefs, FOUND readers – pretty much everyone. In March, he opened Impala, a huge, vibey charcoal grill restaurant with influences from North Africa to north London that’s one of the most talked-about openings of the year.
The Vibe: Dark, sexy, buzzing with life and loud music. In a 1960s concrete building on Dean St, Impala occupies a sprawling space full of nooks and crannies. Service is extremely warm and laid-back, and the restaurant was packed on a recent Monday night, from the lively bar up front to the quieter tables at the back.
The Food: North African-inspired, with influences from Saad’s Egyptian heritage. It starts with Aish Baladi, a puffed-up circular wholegrain Egyptian bread dusted with bran, baked to order, served with olive oil and harissa. A highlight is the pastilla, a paper-thin pastry triangle filled with dense mutton and pickled walnut, plated alongside a fruity and sweet brown sauce. Raw sea bass with peas and mashua root is refreshing and bitter, while white crab kibbeh parcels come wrapped in fragrant shiso leaves instead of dough.
From the slightly larger plates section, grilled short ribs are juicy and light on spice, while sheftalia are standout sausages stuffed with Tamworth pork, wrapped in caul fat with a sticky-sweet glaze. From the mains, monkfish in grape leaves is lightly cooked and could be heavier on flavour, though the accompanying tabbouleh is pleasingly savoury. Crisp spring salad is zhushed up with pistachio butter and flakes of filo pastry for a sweet flavour and crunch. There’s just one dessert, but it’s a triumph: a tricolour date-and-pistachio tart with a light, custardy middle and a savoury pistachio dust on top that brings just the right salty-sweet ending.
The Drink: From the team behind the wine at Mountain (also run by restaurant group Super8), Impala’s extensive list focuses on winemakers and vineyards that prioritise quality farming. They’re also planning to import and serve zero-sulphite Champagne Bourgeois-Diaz, which has a cult following.
The Verdict: Impala got its name from the cherry-red 1964 Chevrolet that Saad drove during his summers in Egypt. It’s a fitting name for a restaurant that’s sexy, colourful and already immensely popular. –Laura Price
→ Impala (Soho) • 13-14 Dean St • Mon-Sun 12-3p & 5-1030p • Book.