Mushroom trip
Holy Carrot (Spitalfields)
RESTAURANTS & BARS • First Word
The Skinny: Two years after opening their original restaurant in Notting Hill, the Holy Carrot team has opened a second branch, this time in Spitalfields Market. It’s not a cut-and-paste job: while the west London site is fully vegan, the east one is 70% vegan, 30% vegetarian, retaining chef-owner Daniel Watkins’s focus on live-fire cooking and fermentation.
The Vibe: Edgy, dimly lit and cool – and somehow totally different from the Notting Hill branch, which is bright, minimalist and sleek. It’s fitting of the area, with white-tiled walls and linoleum floors evoking the market’s Victorian fruit-trading history. Slightly trippy mushroom murals hang over the open kitchen and bar, and there’s a snug warmth to the small, square room with tightly packed, candlelit tables.
The Food: Daring, veg-focused dishes that err on the funky. From the starters, two large chunks of ‘sexy tofu’ come with pickled carrots, carrot purée and a smoked carrot XO sauce that’s a little like a caponata – zingy, punchy and pleasingly textured. Coal-roasted leeks in carrot hot sauce are nicely softened, with hazelnuts for crunch and a creamy hazelnut purée. From the mains, king oyster vol-au-vent is packed with mushrooms and rich, umami sauce. Pizzettas and flatbreads are made with fermented koji and silken tofu – khachapuri is cheesy and blistered around the edges. Ember-baked hispi cabbage with masala sauce is a highlight.
The Drink: Unique, interesting cocktails described by their characteristics: miso-washed Glenmorangie with Campari is ‘savoury, bitter and unexpectedly addictive,’ while a Belvedere sour with lacto‑fermented grapefruit and lemon is ‘sharp, creamy and super-clean’. Non-alcoholic drinks have been given a lot of thought too, with a no-waste carrot spritz and a dill-infused matcha with clarified coconut. There’s a varied wine list, too.
The Verdict: A bold, buzzy bistro that dares to be different, with distinctive flavours and a fun, sociable vibe that fits right into Spitalfields. –Laura Price
→ Holy Carrot (Spitalfields) • 61-63 Brushfield St • Tue-Fri 12-330p & 5-11p, Sat 1030a-330p & 5-11p, Sun 1030a-8p • Book.