Living legacy
Poon’s at Somerset House (Covent Garden)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Poon’s at Somerset House is an evolution of the famed Chinese restaurant Poon’s, which opened its first location in 1973. Bill Poon’s restaurants are now shuttered, but his daughter Amy has taken on the legacy. After bringing it back as a pop-up in 2018, she debuted the restaurant in its new permanent home early last month.
The Vibe: The beautiful space inside Somerset House is elevated but homey. There are two dining spaces, and guests can select from traditional tables or communal kitchen counter seating. It’s bright, airy and tastefully designed, with art and books from the Poon family’s own collection. When I dined, Amy herself was on the floor serving guests. It’s the most pleasant place I’ve eaten all year.
The Food: Drawing on Chinese cooking traditions, the menu includes claypot rice from Hong Kong and a variation on prawn toast using a nearly forgotten method. Wontons doused with chilli vinegar dressing are essential, as are steamed scallops served in their shells with glass noodles and a garlicky sauce. Larger dishes, like steamed pork augmented with shrimp paste and lots of ginger are simple and flavoursome. Everything is best enjoyed alongside one of the claypot rice options (the variation with wind-dried meats is Poon’s signature). There are also a few affordable lunch options and a pre-theatre set menu. Desserts are sparse, but impactful – homemade lychee sorbet is all you need to finish the meal.
The Drink: One of the highlights is the tea list, a selection of varieties from Plantation Teas of Hong Kong (I was a fan of the Osmanthus Oolong). There are several wines by the glass, mostly European as well as one from China, and the cocktail list is thoughtful, including a martini made with Poon’s chilli oil.
The Verdict: Poon’s has immediately re-established itself as an important part of London’s dining scene. –Emily Zemler
FOUND Pro: See our edible gift guide below to share the Poon’s joy.
→ Poon’s at Somerset House (Covent Garden) • Lancaster Pl • Tue-Sat 12-4p & 5-1030p • Book.