RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Last month, the team behind Bistro Freddie and Crispin debuted Canal, a new spot in Westbourne Park overlooking the Grand Union Canal. It’s part of a sleek new Mason & Fifth boutique guesthouse, notably featuring a sunny terrace that’s fast becoming a summer hot spot.
The Vibe: Industrial and modern, the space combines concrete surfaces with an open kitchen whose boisterous energy spills out. Guests can sit outside, in the main dining room or at high-tops surrounding the bar (the dining room has the edge). Servers wear denim uniforms from London fashion designer Nicholas Daley – a nice flourish – and indeed, everything feels stylish in an understated way. The atmosphere is lively, casual and comfortable, making it a grown-up spot for a catch-up with friends or a date.
The Food: Sourdough bread from nearby bakery Layla is served with indulgent smoked butter, and the pickle plate is an easy winner. Trombetta courgette and stracciatella perfectly balance textures and flavours, while bream crudo compellingly incorporates British cherries. Mains include big proteins like a 1kg ribeye and a whole brill, but pasta, like squid ink tagliolini, is more interesting, as is the deceivingly simple plate of summer tomatoes. For dessert, try vanilla soft serve drizzled with olive oil and honey.
The Drink: Cocktails are a collaboration with Hackney’s A Bar with Shapes for a Name, and include an olive oil-laced Negroni served on tap. Beer is mostly local, as are soft drinks from brands like Square Root and Three Spirits. There’s also a selection of wine with a sustainable focus, but the cocktails are the true highlight.
The Verdict: An enjoyable atmosphere, satisfying food, and a great addition to the West London dining scene. –Emily Zemler
→ Canal (Westbourne Park) • 11b Woodfield Rd • Mon-Sun 12-10p • Book.