Georgia folk

DakaDaka (Mayfair)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Heddon Street’s latest occupant is DakaDaka, a modern Georgian restaurant showcasing an underrepresented cuisine with wines from Honey Spencer. It opened in mid-January after two years of planning, and spans two floors, with a soon-to-open bar and event space downstairs.

The Vibe: Convivial and warm, with folk-inspired décor including hand-dyed textiles and ceramic water jugs from Georgia. The upstairs dining space features counter seating and tables, with additional tables and booths downstairs. I lingered long after my plates were cleared.

The Food: Inspired by classic Georgian cooking. Small plate highlights include creamy kidney bean hummus and DakaDaka’s take on badrijani, made with baby aubergines – both are best served with steaming hot lavash bread. Dumplings, known as khinkali, come packed with girolle mushrooms or Iberico pork, and there are four types of wood-fired skewers (I had lamb). Larger plates highlight braised meat and fish, as well as lobio, a bean stew. The pickle plate is a punchy addition to any order, and a winter tomato salad makes for an ideal accompaniment to the mains. The current dessert menu has only two items: a Georgian wine soft serve and a honey mille-feuille, a near-perfect variation on medovik (multi-layered honey cake).

The Drink: Wine director Honey Spencer has curated a list of Georgian labels and flavours, with interesting wines by the glass or bottle, and cocktails veering between classic and creative, incorporating local ingredients like seabuckthorn. Non-alcoholic options are equally solid, including a few Georgian lemonades.

The Verdict: Friendly vibes and approachable menus for a cuisine that deserves to be championed. –Emily Zemler

→ DakaDaka (Mayfair) • 10 Heddon St • Tue-Thu 12-230p, 530-10p Fri 12-230p, 530-11p Sat 12-11p • Book.