Fast and friendly
Kumori (Soho)
RESTAURANTS & BARS • First Word
The Skinny: After a few pop-ups, Japanese handroll spot Kumori launched a permanent space in Soho in April. Serving high-end fish in a casual way, the restaurant is led by John Randy de Guzman, the former head chef of Tobi Masa.
The Vibe: Unpretentious, despite its chefs’ high pedigree. An upbeat playlist of modern hits plays to guests sitting across two long countertops, one of which has a close-up view of the action. Service is fast and friendly, and the atmosphere – lively and loud – is a far cry from plenty of London’s more pretentious sushi spots. You can book in advance, but seats turn over quickly, so walk-ins are often possible.
The Food: Handrolls, served quickly, consumed immediately. The menu is relatively short and uncomplicated. Guests can opt for a set handroll selection of three, four or five, or create their own array (I ate seven in total). The baked crab handroll, wrapped in soy paper, is an indulgent delight so good I ordered two. The unagi foie gras roll is an umami surprise, while the lone vegetarian option of miso aubergine is the spot’s sleeper hit. You can also order padrón peppers, miso soup and three types of sashimi, but it’s the rolls you’re after, along with perhaps a whimsical bump of caviar for an extra £12. For dessert, black sesame mochi is a great finisher.
The Drink: Well-crafted Japanese-style cocktails, including a yuzu margarita, and several non-alcoholic options. Beer, wine and soda are also available.
The Verdict: An all-round great experience in a fitting new setting. –Emily Zemler