Eyes on the pies
The Newman Arms (Fitzrovia)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Built in 1730, The Newman Arms has lived many lives. Once a brothel, it became a pub once frequented by Winston Churchill, and inspired the ‘Proles’ pub in George Orwell’s 1984. It’s changed hands multiple times over the years, but last spring, new owners gave it a lick of fresh red paint, and turned the first floor into a pie room.
The Vibe: Upstairs, the restaurant is cosy, candlelit and romantic, with down-to-earth service and a nook for privacy. Downstairs is as it’s been for years: a proper pub, with Murphy’s and pale ale on tap and drinkers spilling out onto the pavement in all weathers. The covered alley boasts quite possibly the warmest overhead heaters in London, making it an excellent in-the-know date spot.
The Food: It’s about the pies, with a succinct but satisfying seasonal menu. From the starters, chestnut mushroom paté was dense, rich and creamy, and came with pickled shallots and toasted sourdough. Aged beef shin and rib pie was individually portioned and generously packed with braised beef and Murphy’s stout gravy. It came with intensely cheesy mash and a tranche of excellent roasted hispi cabbage.
Fisherman’s pie was less well-endowed and could have done with a better fish-to-mash ratio, though mussels were a welcome addition. Salmon roe added little, but the dish was improved with a splash of Tabasco from a miniature bottle that came clutched between the claws of a whole langoustine on top of the pie. Sticky toffee pudding could have benefited from a slick of proper, hot custard, instead of thin vanilla sauce.
Downstairs, there’s a bar snacks menu featuring Scotch pies, sausage rolls and a Scotch egg of the week, cooked to order.
The Drink: The signature cocktail is a Black Velvet, here made with Murphy’s stout and crémant. We opted instead for a decent Negroni (£13), which was poured from a charming hip flask and came with £9 refills.
The Verdict: In a city full of fancy gastropubs, The Newman Arms embraces tradition, keeping it warm and unpretentious. –Laura Price
→ The Newman Arms (Fitzrovia) • 23 Rathbone St • Mon-Sat 12-3p & 5-930p • Book.