No small plans
Labombe by Trivet, Motorino, Norman's, Highgate properties, best Lyon restaurants, Lyaness, The Macbeth, Shires Yard, MORE
RESTAURANTS • First Word
New haunts
The Skinny: Long before he was executive head chef at The Fat Duck, and even longer before he opened Trivet, Jonny Lake was a school kid in Ontario with big dreams. When a French teacher tasked his class with inventing a restaurant, the 13-year-old dreamt up an entire fictional menu for ‘Labombe’ (meaningless name, all one word). Decades later, the now-decorated chef came across his old French homework, and decided to use the name for his newest London venture, Labombe by Trivet, which opened yesterday.
The Vibe: Labombe fills big shoes. The site was once the Met Bar – favourite haunt of Liam Gallagher, Kate Moss et al in the nineties and noughties – located inside the swanky COMO Metropolitan London hotel, with its own entrance just off the stress-inducing dual carriageway that is Park Lane. Once inside, it’s serene, stylish, with an art-filled dining room looking onto a long counter and open kitchen. There’s also a spacious private dining room at the back.
The Food: Meat-heavy, Europe-centric sharing plates with a touch of Basque. The most inventive, original stuff is concentrated in the very reasonably priced snacks. An imaginative gilda features a deep-fried king oyster, while a skewer of grilled duck heart with pickled cherry packs rich flavour. My two highlights were also snacks: first, a miniature toastie with lashings of butter, crispy quinoa for texture, and umami-laden, creamy bottarga. Then, what will surely become Labombe’s signature: the ‘hot tongue bun,’ a pastrami-like sandwich of fried brioche with thinly sliced braised ox tongue, anchovy mayo, pickles, dill, anchovy pieces and – the best bit – blackcurrant ‘mostarda’ that recalls the winning combo of IKEA meatballs and lingonberry jam.
The rest of the menu is a mix of small and heavier, meatier plates. Seabass crudo comes with four sizeable slices in a tangy orange ponzu, anchovy garum and, again, crispy quinoa for crunch. Grilled kalettes are dressed with pork fat vinaigrette, tuna heart and lemon, while farinata with a side of mortadella was a tad too greasy for me. Grilled confit Delica pumpkin is welcome respite from the meat, and comes with sherried almond purée and candied almonds.
For mains, mackerel was beautifully butterflied and lightly cooked, while a bitter leaf salad provided much-needed greenery. Bavette was perfectly medium rare and flavoursome, with just a few flecks of sea salt. A side of skin-on fries were nicely seasoned with ‘Turkajun’ spice and came with a pot of fresh-tasting charred tomato relish that beats any ketchup. For dessert, there’s a classic crème caramel with bitter Campari that’s too rich for one person, and an excellent fig and almond frangipane tart with cardamom cream.
The Drink: When the young Jonny Lake got his homework back, his French teacher had scrawled a note: ‘Où sont les boissons?’ Turns out he was so absorbed in creating his imaginary menu that he forgot to include drinks. Thankfully he’s now joined by his Trivet partner, master sommelier Isa Bal, whose extensive global wine list covers every price point, with older vintages and rare options too. Cocktails nod to The Met Bar and are separated by decades: O’Hagan’s tipple for the 1870s, Negroni for the 1910s and, for the 2020s, a Labombe Spritz featuring Chartreuse gentian and sparkling wine.
The Verdict: Similar to Trivet in many ways, Labombe is more accessible, price-wise, and a little more laidback. You could pop in for steak, chips and salad, or go all-out by ordering half the menu. It would be too easy to say it’s ‘the bomb,’ but it’s an excellent second opening from a talented restaurateur duo. –Laura Price
→ Labombe by Trivet (Mayfair) • 19 Old Park Lane • Daily 12-2p & 6-930p • Book.
RESTAURANTS • Intel
SPEED FREAKS: Hot on the heels of Town – which opened in May to instant acclaim – restaurateur Stevie Parle is teaming up on a new restaurant with Irish chef Luke Ahearne, who opened Lita to similarly rapid acclaim in 2024 before leaving in July. Described as a ‘modern London-Italian,’ Motorino will occupy a huge space in Fitzrovia and feature a bar led by Kevin Armstrong of Satan’s Whiskers. The partnership between Ahearne and Parle makes it one of the most exciting launches of the autumn. Opens October. Follow.
(IT’S NOT) THE END: As his restaurant The Palomar celebrates its 10th birthday, DJ-turned-restaurateur Layo Paskin is also marking 30 years since the start of his nightclub, The End, with a pop-up at KOKO in Camden. Next month, The End returns for one weekend only with three nights of techno, house and drum and bass including Danny Tenaglia and, of course, Layo and Bushwacka. Meanwhile, The Palomar and downstairs Evelyn’s Table will each offer special menus for the day. 09/10 at The Palomar; 10-12/10 at KOKO; Buy tickets.
GRANDMOTHER’S KITCHEN: Chet Sharma’s debut cookbook publishes next month. Named after his hit modern Indian restaurant in Mayfair, BiBi The Cookbook: Stories from my Bibi, blends personal essays and tales of his heritage with recipes for signature dishes like Sharmaji’s Lahori chicken. Out 08/10. Order.
BRUNCH BUNCH: After closing in May, cult café Norman’s is returning for a one-off collaboration at Noisy Oyster in Shoreditch, which launches its brunch menu at the same time. On the last weekend of September, the Norman’s team will serve a nostalgic fish bap alongside Noisy Oyster’s new seafood-focused brunch offering of monkfish and scallop patties in an English muffin, and comforting tater tots. Norman’s collab 27-28/09; brunch from 27/09. Book.
GOOD GRILLING: New York restaurant Theodora is crossing the pond for a collab with Soho spot Firebird, from the owners of Noisy Oyster. Theodora’s first ever international pop-up will introduce Londoners to wood-fired dishes like aubergine dip with balsamic glaze, and ceviche with charred pineapple. £75 for 6 courses, 09-10/10. Book. –Laura Price
LONDON RESTAURANT LINKS: In London Fields, Pophams pasta restaurant closing 30/10 due to costs, bakery to remain open • Endo at the Rotunda to remain closed indefinitely following fire • Dishoom marks 15-year anniversary with food giveaways.
REAL ESTATE • First Mover
Three for-sale 4BR houses in Highgate that recently came to market:
→ Parklands, Cholmeley Park (Highgate) • 4BR/3BA/3R, 249 m2 semi-detached house • Asking price: £2.25mn • internal garage, private rear garden, and large communal garden • Ownership type: freehold • Agent: Day Morris.
→ Claremont Rd (Highgate, above) • 4BR/3BA/2R, 205 m2 semi-detached house • Guide price: £2.275mn • open floor plan with glass wall/doors onto private garden • Ownership type: freehold • Agent: KFH.
→ Highfields Grove (Highgate) • 4BR/4BA/3R 278 m2 detached house • Asking price: £3.95mn • double-fronted on ‘countrified lane’ • Ownership type: freehold • Agent: Dexters.
WORK & PLAY LINKS: Massive new Picasso exhibit opens today at Tate Modern • Claim: London’s coolest neighborhood is Peckham • Why have sheep returned to Hampstead Heath? • The unparalleled perfection of the penny loafer.
WORK • Wednesday Routine
Mix it up
RYAN CHETIYAWARDANA (AKA MR LYAN) • founder • Lyaness & Seed Library
Neighbourhood you work in: Southbank & Shoreditch
Neighbourhood you live in: Hoxton
It’s Wednesday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
Wednesday is always a good day, as although the beginning of the week involves management calls with all the bars and the Mr Lyan Studio teams, on Wednesdays, I’m in with the Lyaness team. Lyaness has a big menu run which takes a whole year, and although we've just launched a new Collaboration Menu (which replaces our Cookbook 3.0 menu, named the world's best cocktail menu), we start on the new one almost straight away.
What’s on the agenda for today?
We have some filming, our Lyaness creative meeting, then I have lunch with some of my old mentors and dearest friends from the trade – this is a raucous affair that balances a huge amount of warmth and inspiration. Craig has taught me so much with his ability to cut to the chase, Dawn has one of the best and most inspiring palates and perspectives in the world (and she's a Master of Wine so the wine is always killer), Mitch has been an incredible modern influence on what attention to detail and practice can bring, and Dave is my favourite writer, speaker and educator in the world. Good wine, good food and good conversation means it's a very good day.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I have a strong week of dinners! Having been to some of London's much-loved, as well as new spots (Black Axe Mangal x Rita's, Planque, Ibai, AngloThai), I’m off to Chicago, where we’re working on a collaboration at After (Chef Curtis Duffy's cocktail bar). I’m very excited to be dining at Ever with the team.
How about a little leisure or culture?
One of my favourite aspects of London life is the amazing cultural institutions that are free across the city – from the world famous V&A, British Museum and the Tate Modern to more contemporary ones like the Barbican, Hayward, ICA and Gagosian.
Any weekend getaways?
Often I'll try and cover quite a bit in a trip, and food is my best go-to guide (hence the premise for our new show, Mr Lyan’s Taste Trips!). There's been a wealth of new spots from friends outside of London in beautiful surroundings (Mark Birchall at Moor Hall, Merlin Labron-Johnson at Osip, Nicholas Balfe at HOLM), so these are often the jumping-off point for weekend trips.
What store or service do you always recommend?
So many friends in creative worlds kill themselves each year over tax returns, and I wholeheartedly recommend handing it over to an accountant to run. Seems so obvious, but the reaction from friends has been so positive when they get to take this off their plate. Store-wise, I always recommend the Newington Green Fruit & Veg shop for some really superlative produce.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Magic
Penn & Teller • London Palladium (Soho) • Sun @ 730p • balcony, £36 per
Basement • O2 Forum (Kentish Town) • Fri @ 7p • GA, £28 per
Dave Chappelle • Hammersmith Apollo (Hammersmith) • Wed 24/09 @ 8p • circle, £167 per
BARS • First Round
Sleep no more
The Skinny: East London pub and live music venue The Macbeth has been reimagined, thanks to Jamie Allan and Patrick Nolan, who refurbished the 19th-century interior and updated the kitchen’s offerings.
The Vibe: Undeniably cool in the most effortless way possible. It’s divided into two connected spaces, with the front of the room for drinking and general merriment, and the back for dining alongside the open kitchen. On a recent Saturday night, it was loud, energetic and fun.
The Food: Presented on a handwritten chalkboard, the menu evolves as the week goes along. It’s Portuguese-ish fare with a casual, comforting vibe, like cockles cooked with olive oil and seafood rice, or their take on Portugal’s deliciously grease-laden pork sandwich, the bifana, one of the best dishes I’ve had in London this year. It’s the sort of convivial food that never feels too pretentious for the setting. Sometimes The Macbeth shares the menu on Instagram in advance, but sometimes it’s a welcome surprise.
The Drink: The Macbeth stays true to its roots with pints of beer as the primary offering. The non-alcoholic selection is less varied, but there are several brands of alcohol-free beer to accompany the food.
The Verdict: The Macbeth has immediately established itself as a new local favourite. –Emily Zemler
→ The Macbeth (Shoreditch) • 70 Hoxton St • Tue-Sat 6-11p, Sun 1-5p (for food) • Book.
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GETAWAYS • Intel
LEASE OF LIFE: An historic part of Bath is set to be renamed and relaunched as a vibrant dining and shopping hub. Shires Yard opens next month with a range of restaurants and bars, including a branch of Root from Josh and Holly Eggleton, serving veg-led plates in a double-height space. There are also plans for a boutique hotel. Shires Yard launches 15/10; website coming soon. Sign up for news on Root. –Laura Price
GETAWAYS LINKS: In Shoreditch, 81-bedroom Sir Devonshire Square hotel opens • Also in Shoreditch, sneak peeking Aethos London, opening next month • On Three Mile Beach in Cornwall, a low-key babymoon • Dublin isn’t just a pub town anymore.
GETAWAYS • The Nines
Restaurants, Lyon
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Café des Fédérations (1st arr), traditional Lyonnaise bouchon, meat lovers’ paradise, great value 5-course set menu €34, book