RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Tamas Naszai and Tomoko Hasegawa, the husband and wife chef duo behind the much-loved but now closed Roji, opened HIMI, a jewel box ‘neo-izakaya’ off Carnaby Street, early this year.
The Vibe: A comfortable and informal space, with an experience that’s anything but casual. Sit at the chef’s counter for an arm’s-length view of the charcoal flame robata and sushi counters at work (Tamas works the robata, while Tomoko prepares the sushi).
The Food: The menu centres on the sushi and robata stations, both constantly refreshed with seasonal ingredients and unexpected flavours. Start with the torikara, two kinds of perfectly fried chicken. Boneless thighs and drumstick lollipops come piping hot, topped with a lingering bite of sansho pepper. Crab chawanmushi, served cold and topped with fresh-picked crab and sweetcorn, was also a hit. Next, move to the robata for the kinoko houba-yaki. A Japanese magnolia leaf is topped with scrape-the-bottom-good, sticky-sweet walnut miso sauce and seven types of London- and European-grown mushrooms. The umami bomb of a dish is fired on top of the open charcoal robata.
Chef Tomoko’s nigiri selection includes Isle of Skye sea trout and tender squid topped with sudachi zest and salt. We also had a spicy Spanish tuna temaki special with no spicy mayonnaise in sight – here it's done with freshly chopped tuna and a dry, seven-spice blend. To finish, dioka: walnut cookies served with a sake kasu custard, based on the cookies chef Tamas’ grandmother used to make.
The Drink: Like any good izakaya, HIMI serves draught beer, but I recommend the sake and standout cocktails like the seaweed martini.
The Verdict: I first tried HIMI as a pre-theatre dinner alternative, but now the only front-row seat I’m after is at the chef’s counter. –Kylie van Hoek
→ HIMI (Soho) • 4 Newburgh St • Tue 530-1030p, Wed-Fri 12-230p & 530-1030p, Sat 12-1030p • Book.