RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: After three successful years of Lisboeta, chef Nuno Mendes has decided to focus on his projects in Portugal. But instead of closing the Charlotte St. site, owners MJMK (Kol, AngloThai) transformed it into a new Portuguese restaurant. Opened last week, Luso occupies the same characterful two-floor space, with a new, slightly more casual menu devised by Mendes protégé Leandro Carreira.
The Vibe: Luso’s interior remains largely unchanged from Lisboeta, and it’s still one of the most beautiful places to dine in London. On the ground floor (above) is a long, narrow room with the open kitchen at the back – it’s a little more casual down here, and a good spot for a pre-dinner drink, a first date or a catch-up with friends. Upstairs is another long, narrow room with multiple spaces for romantic dates and celebrations. The best seats are by the front windows, surrounded by exposed brickwork, sage green wood panels, and some charming new black-and-white sketches of fish. It’s a genuinely warm, welcoming spot, and the service is friendly.
The Food: Luso (pronounced ‘loo-zoo’) refers to all things Portuguese, and the menu focuses on the Iberian Atlantic coastline. It starts with tangy Algarve-style pickled carrots, sourdough and excellent homemade fish pâté. Then there are small plates, including finger-thin grilled chouriço (the Portuguese spelling), the best smoked sausage I’ve eaten since Asador Etxebarri (high praise). A creative lobster roll is full of promise but falls short – the flaky, buttery, croissant-style pastry overpowers the delicate lobster meat. At lunchtime only, there’s an enticing-sounding ‘prego,’ the Portuguese steak sandwich made with brown butter and mustard.
After small plates, there are larger mains for sharing, including piri piri chicken. Wild, whole seabass is salt-baked and presented in its pre-cooked form before returning to the table, naked but for a squeeze of lemon and a Portuguese gooseneck dispenser of olive oil to drizzle at your leisure. The fish is fresh and succulent, and goes well with moreish, buttery, sticky baked rice. Suckling pig is creatively presented in bite-sized pieces, with orange slices, plain crisps and a thick, garlicky sauce. As per northern Portuguese tradition, it’s meant to be dunked in the sauce and chased with crisp and orange, but the pork is just as good on its own.
Tomato salad is the freshest of the fresh, with huge hunks doused in olive oil, salt and red onion. Thinly sliced roasted red peppers should be ordered alongside the mains. As for pudding, there’s a strong selection: a rich, perfect chocolate mousse with a smattering of olive oil and salt, and a classic, gooey almond tart. There’s also a gingery, koji-fermented rice pudding with olive oil that feels surprising, creative and comforting. Luso’s opening menu has been written by Carreira, but it’s likely to evolve over time under head chef Kim Hernandez, whose culinary chops include Luca and Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare.
The Drink: To start, a killer Negroni. Then it’s straight to a stellar wine list of Portuguese labels, including a collection from Herdade do Cebolal in the Alentejo, where the bottles are aged in lobster cages under the sea.
The Verdict: In these early stages, Luso doesn’t have as strong an identity as Lisboeta, but it’s still a good spot for Portuguese cuisine in London, and likely to strengthen over time. Whatever you do, leave room for dessert. –Laura Price
→ Luso (Soho) • 30 Charlotte St. • Mon 530-11p, Tue-Sat 12-3 & 530-11p • Book.