Bombay nights

Permit Room (Portobello)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: If any restaurant group knows how to expand without diluting its brilliance, it’s Dishoom, with its 11 cafés across the country (seven in London) and plans to crack the US. In 2023, the upmarket Indian chain chose Brighton to debut its spin-off concept Permit Room, an homage to drinking holes that emerged in then-Bomb…